Another option is to think about the DOAS route. This may lower the cost of providing dehumidification of the outdoor airstream, if you're trying to maintain a dewpoint indoors that is lower than the dewpoint outdoors under some conditions. <br>
<br><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Dec 2, 2008 at 11:25 AM, Daly, Matt <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:Matt.Daly@wesd.org">Matt.Daly@wesd.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;">
Just some thoughts on HVAC basics. Depending on what can be done with your heritage building....Increased R-value of the exterior walls will move the dew point to within the wall. Combine this with a vapor barrier - a good coat of paint and sealing to prevent conditioned air from entering the wall cavity - and the temperature of the inside surface of the wall is above the dew point. Efficient glazing will decrease condensation on the windows, but prepare for the inevitable condensation anyway. A dedicated dessicant system after the mixed air, assuming an air handling system exists or can be installed, would be another or additional method, and would help prevent condensation within the wall cavity which will happen to some extent regardless of how well your walls are sealed.<br>
<font color="#888888"><br>
<br>
Matt Daly<br>
Willamette ESD<br>
</font><div><div></div><div class="Wj3C7c"><br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Bldg-sim mailing list<br>
<a href="http://lists.onebuilding.org/listinfo.cgi/bldg-sim-onebuilding.org" target="_blank">http://lists.onebuilding.org/listinfo.cgi/bldg-sim-onebuilding.org</a><br>
To unsubscribe from this mailing list send a blank message to <a href="mailto:BLDG-SIM-UNSUBSCRIBE@ONEBUILDING.ORG">BLDG-SIM-UNSUBSCRIBE@ONEBUILDING.ORG</a><br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br>